Possibly one of my favorite New Year’s Eve memories is a house party in Brooklyn with dear friends, fancy outfits, even fancier food, and Champagne — in fact, a bottle of Champagne, not Prosecco or Cava or any other sparkler, was your ticket in. What started as a tasting exercise (and way to obliterate the memory of the lobster that just would not die) turned into a raucous good time in the early hours of 2010.

Or maybe that ten-hour dinner in a ski lodge in Alto Adige was the best New Year’s, when I was placated with more than enough Prosecco to make sure that I could get down the slope — on a little plastic toboggan no less — where I’d been picked up by the ski patrol the day before, too terrified to ski down on my own.

Sparkling wine is a standard part of any toast and celebration, and New Year’s Eve is no exception. In fact, it may just be my favorite part of the holiday; there is just something so festive about fluted glasses, rapidly rising bubbles, and the giddiness you feel when you sip it. So, here are a few ideas for New Year’s bubblies for both the traditionalist and the more adventurous:

Zonin Prosecco ($15) — As Lorenzo Zonin of the Zonin family described it to me, this is a “wine of pleasure.” A simple, refreshing sparkler, the Zonin Prosecco has a delightful hint of green apple on the nose and palate, without any hint of sweetness that you so often find in other mass-produced Proseccos.

Contadi Castaldi Franciacorta Brut ($25) —
Dry, clean, and crisp, this sparkling wine from Franciacorta in Italy’s Lombardy region is made from a blend of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, and Pinot Blanc. It is a light, young, fresh wine, characterized by notes of pear and stone fruit, with a little hint of spice on the finish.

Taittinger Cuvée Prestige Rosé ($47) — This salmon-colored rosé, a blend of Pinot Noir (70%) and Chardonnay (30%), is a very well-balanced bubbly. All of the components — the ripe red fruit, floral, and citrus notes; the slight flavor of yeast that is so characteristic of Champagnes; the steely minerality — come together elegantly, with no element overpowering another. Its delicate bubbles, or mousse, linger from start to the very long finish, braced by the wine’s lovely acidity.

Gosset Grande Reserve ($60) — Gosset makes some of the most elegant, restrained Champagnes I’ve ever tasted. The house refrains from any use of malolactic fermentation, so it avoids the weight that oak might impart. The Grande Reserve (46% Chardonnay, 39% Pinot Noir, and 13% Pinot Meunier, wiht about 2% of reserve juice) is vibrant, its very delicate, airy mousse singing from the glass, and the lightness extends to the nose, with hints of marzipan and floral sweetness. The depth and maturity of this wine emerge on the tongue with full-bodied force, with flavors ranging from candied fruits to roasted chestnuts. Excellent for any traditional New Year’s meal or elegant toast. In fact, I hope that I’ll be popping it this year.

Abbreviated version published on SAVEUR.com