Stay: La Verrière, Crestet, France

When I visited the Chêne Bleu estate in June 2013, I was deeply impressed by the care and precision that had gone into every aspect of restoring the property, including the house and its surroundings. Visitors to the area can actually rent out rooms or the entire house for periods of time (a weekly minimum during high season) for a relaxing, elegant, and deeply restorative experience, high above Provence.

TO STAY

La Verrière
Available for rent by room or for the entire house
Chemin de La Verrière, Crestet, France
33-4/90-10-06-30

Drink: Chêne Bleu Rosé

It was a gorgeous day in early summer when I visited the small wine producer Chêne Bleu, based on the edge of the southern Rhône and the Côteaux de Provence in the south of France. Getting to the winery at La Verrière, located atop a mountain amongst the trees of the Dentelles de Montmirail, is easier said than done: Our GPS couldn’t find the address, so we had to do it the old-fashioned way, winding along narrow roads above the town of Crestet, eyes open for small signs and roadside markers, praying we were going in the right direction as we passed by forests and hiking trails until we finally came upon the beautifully restored ninth-century estate, high above the Rhône river valley. Continue reading

Wines Made with Love

If there’s one thing that can really draw me to a wine, it’s discovering a unique story behind the bottle. Not every wine is a labor of love, but for those that are, their points of distinction vary drastically from house to house: Vineyard managers growing international grapes like Cabernet Sauvignon versus native varieties like Portugal’s Touriga Nacional; winemakers who might choose to ferment wines using natural yeast; wines aged in amphorae rather than the more ubiquitous barrels and stainless steel; even technical matters like pressing grapes gently as whole clusters, or hand-picking them from the vines at night. All of these differences—whether grand gestures or subtle attention to detail—come through in the complexity of the final wine, each bottle a love letter from the winemaker to a place, a grape, or a year. Continue reading

A Red for White Wine Drinkers

Living with a white wine drinker, I have a whole collection of red wines I never drink. They’re usually too heavy, dense, or “meaty” as he likes to say. But on a recent date night to New York’s Maialino, I thought I’d make a push for something we might both enjoy, given the chill in the air. I gave sommelier Erik Lombardo my challenge: help us find a light-bodied, acid-driven red that even a white wine drinker could love. He came back with a grape I’d never heard of—Rossesse from Liguria, the thin-strip of land in northwestern Italy that hugs the Ligurian sea and best known for playing host to Genoa, the capital city for pesto-lovers everywhere. Lombardo described the wine as having a briny acidity, and I was immediately intrigued. Continue reading

Beyond Sauvignon Blanc: New Zealand Riesling

When autumn hits, I put away the clean, crisp wines of summer and turn to aromatic riesling, its delicious nectar warming my body and soul against the onset of cold. I’ve explored the unctuous rieslings of Germany and Austria, tasted Eden Valley’s Australian delights, adored Alsace’s bone-dry take. But it was only in the past year or so that I discovered New Zealand’s hidden secret. Continue reading

High-Quality, Affordable Pinot Noir from Chile

During the February harvest season in Chile’s Leyda Valley, a cool-climate winegrowing region located alongside the country’s central coastline, I visited the winery that gave its name to the region.

Viña Leyda was founded in 1998 and has since been focused on developing vineyards in key areas, covering the hillsides that dramatically slope down toward the Maipo river and the sparkling Pacific Ocean in the distance, for grape varieties like pinot noir and sauvignon blanc. Continue reading

Barale Fratelli Dolcetto d’Alba Costa di Rose 2009

My boyfriend’s brother finally got his green card, after 15 years in the US on visa after visa. We decided to have a little celebration at home (a little vegetarian pasta anyone?), but that didn’t mean the wine couldn’t be special. I rooted through my wines, the ones I have tucked away for aging or for special occasions, to find one that I thought could be fun and fitting for the meal. Continue reading

Rascal Pinot Noir 2011

I am really, earnestly trying to teach myself to like pinot noir. Sometimes, I find bottles that really inspire me; other times, ones I like; and then there are the times that I stumble upon something that I really, really dislike.

I opened one such bottle last night— the 2011 Rascal from Oregon’s Willamette Valley. To be fair, I have not yet found a taste for Oregon pinots, and I said as much to the wine clerk, usually because I find them jammy, overripe, and lacking in acidity. But, in the spirit of trying something new, I decided to go for it, and $24 later opened a bottle of… grape juice. Thin, almost watery, fruit-punchy on the palate, and somehow possessing a whopping 13% alcohol, this wine left me wanting. Anything else, really.

0 out of 5 stars (low score due to price/quality ratio; would maybe rate a tad higher if I hadn’t shelled out $25 + tax)

The Powerful “Super-Rhônes” of Chêne Bleu

I had the good fortune of meeting and having lunch with Nicole Rolet of Chêne Bleu (“Blue Oak” in French) on her recent trip to New York. I didn’t know much about the wines before we met, but I was immediately taken away by her story. She and her husband had renovated La Verrière, a Medieval property in Provence, high in the mountains above the Gigondas region in the Southern Rhône.

Continue reading

Elegant Cabs from California’s Sonoma County

Sonoma doesn’t get the recognition for cabernet sauvignon that its chic neighbor Napa Valley receives, perhaps because Napa so defines the flavor and body of the typical California red.

Sonoma, closer to the ocean, has a slightly milder climate, which lends itself to creating a more elegant cab in certain areas like the Alexander Valley and Sonoma Valley.

Continue reading