Author Archives: Sarah

To Live by Bread & Cheese Alone

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I used to spend my summers in the south of France—my mother’s childhood friend had moved there to study painting, fell in love with a man, and never left. So, we obviously went to visit. From a very young age, then, I was introduced to the simple lifestyle and eating traditions of Provence. Simple salads. Fresh food that came straight from the market. Baguettes bought that morning. And Roquefort… I have been a bread and cheese lover ever since. In fact, I think there is no better meal if you are looking for something quick and delicious, especially on the go.

Today, G and I prepared a picnic that he brought to Bryant Park at lunch time. It was a perfect day—not hot, not chilly, no rain, a little breeze. We sat under the birch trees and set the table. This morning I had packed up my little cooler with a small cutting board and a paring knife wrapped on a dishcloth that ended up serving as our tablecloth. G added the fresh-bought baguette from the store around the corner, salami, apples, and the cheese—gorgonzola dolce and parmigiano. He sliced the bread and the salami and began to make little open-faced sandwiches, while I ate each separately, savoring their individual flavors. It was a perfect summertime meal: crisp, fresh, simple. When it was time to go, we shook the breadcrumbs from the cloth, rewrapped the knife, and packed the cooler, leaving it much lighter than it had been when he arrived.

Retail Review: Alphabet City Wine Co.

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My street in the East Village is one of the most fabulous places to be in terms of quality food and wine at affordable prices. In the past six months or so, great wine and cheese shops have popped up (as well as new bars, cafes, and restaurants) all along Avenue C. Amongst these is the Alphabet City Wine Co., haven for wine geeks, both confirmed and aspiring, everywhere.

Walking in, you feel like a guest in someone’s private wine cellar: a coffee table surrounded by a few leather chairs is on your right (always with at least one glass sitting on the table); a large wood-plank table is in the center of the room used for display and their twice-weekly free wine tastings; and the walls are lined with bottles. In fact, the wine bottles appear more like art than a product to be sold. There are no signs or explanations–these guys want you to ask questions and to engage them in conversation about every bottle on the shelf. The only writing, other than that on the wine label, is the small price tag…small both in size and scale. The goal of the shop is in fact to prove that good wine can be affordable. The owner Keith and his staff hand-select each of the wines they carry. They know the nuances of every wine, comparisons that can be made, and of course the perfect pairing.

In fact, I like to go in, describe what I am planning on making, and ta da! the perfect wine appears in my hand, chilled if need be and ready for consumption (or if they’re down to their last bottle of white or rose, they have the low-down on the cool-down quick fix–a bucket of ice water and salt). Last night, I had decided to make an asparagus and ricotta tarte and wanted to find the perfect wine to go with it. After discussing the merits of a cava or prosecco versus a gewuerztraminer (a sweeter German white to which my palate has yet to adapt) when paired with the strong taste of asparagus, we settled on the Icardi Cortese. Ever heard of Gavi di Gavi? One of my favorite sipping wines, the Gavi di Gavi is actually a wine produced in the town of, you guessed it, Gavi, and it is made from the Cortese grape. That said, I was sold. As for the pairing? Excellent while cooking, but it had warmed by the time the tarte was ready. Next time, I’ll be sure to keep it on ice.

Restaurant Review: Candela Candela

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*now closed

Last night, G and I went to Candela Candela, a Cuban-Italian fusion restaurant on 2nd avenue between 5th and 6th. Strange mix? I thought so too, so I decided it was worth a try. The interior has a purposefully dated look–old photographs and a mural decorate the walls, and rough-hewn wood tables and countertops characterize the space. It’s sure to have a cozy feel in the wintertime, although we sat halfway between the open window and the patio.

Our waiter, a Franco-Israeli, was extremely attentive and helpful. He brought us the menus immediately, as well as the wine list. The wines, however, were available only by the bottle, so for wine by the glass he resorted to memory. There were three whites, Chardonnay, Pinot Grigio, and a Sauvignon Blanc (all to be expected), and five reds. No labels or provenances were mentioned. He helped pair our wine to our meal choices–Cabernet Sauvignon with my red pepper souffle and a Pinot Noir with Giorgio’s chicken.

Despite the extensive selection, the menu left much to be desired–there was no true sense of fusion of the two cuisines. Instead, the Italian dishes were listed alongside the Cuban ones, saltimbocca next to ropa vieja. We decided to go for an appetizer and a main course between the two of us. To me, the Tortino sounded the most appealing–a red pepper souffle baked with walnuts and served over chickpeas and corn puree. For G, I thought the Perugina sounded perfect–chicken breast rolled around baby spinach, prosciutto, and pine nuts, served with a gorgonzola sauce. He typically likes the most heavy-sounding thing on the menu.

Our wine was served, and a few sips later, the food came out, served on country crockware that matched the restaurants rustic feel. The Tortino was about a palm’s size, as I had expected, but I noticed G blanch when he was served–5 tiny little medallions of chicken and spinach rolls. We dug in, however, and both dishes proved to be quite filling. On the other hand, the flavors were unadventurous. His gorgonzola tasted more like a cream sauce, and I couldn’t trace the red peppers anywhere in the cake, which was more of a veggie pattie than a souffle. It lacked any sort of airiness–I can only assume eggs were included for it to have been given that name.

The service was the most exceptional part of the evening. Candela Candela is a great neighborhood joint–you leave full and satisfied–unless you have your own spot that your already love to frequent. Nothing about the food, from the concept to the flavors, is very special, and the Cabernet leaves a bad taste in your mouth.

Restaurant Review: Giano

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In Roman mythology, Janus (Giano in Italian) was the god of gates, doors, doorways, beginnings, and endings—so it’s fitting that I’d choose Giano as my entree into this blog. There is nothing like this East Village treasure, which takes the Roman god as its inspiration to put a new twist on Italian cooking. Like Janus, the restaurant looks both to the past and to the future—its innovative take on the traditional dishes combined with creative new approaches to a more modern cuisine results in the most mouth-wateringly delicious food that I have tasted on either side of the Atlantic.

The antipasti are all wonderful. I’ve tried the summer spinach salad with strawberries, the goat cheese and black olive terrine, and the caprese (the mozzarella is surprisingly fresh and nutty). However, the real winner is the carpaccio di polpo, thinly-sliced raw octopus—for you non-octopus eaters, stash your prejudice. There is no off-putting texture or fishiness, just a refreshing start to your meal. The lemon dressing really caps it off nicely.

I Primi: The gnudi, traditionally conceived as “naked” spinach and ricotta ravioli filling, are whipped into tiny souffles (a far cry from their normal rustic texture) and drizzled with butter and crispy sage leaves. I dream about these little Italian dumpling, they are that good. That’s not to say the other pasta and risotto should be missed–the taviolini tartufo e bottarga, a creamy truffle and fish sauce over the long, tubular noodles, is surprisingly amazing, while the pappardelle con ragu biano d’agnello (a white lamb sauce) is an ultra-modern take on the old comfort dish. And what’s there not to love about circular lasagna? As for secondi and dolci, the stuffed pork cutlet followed by tiramisu are really unbeatable.

Everything about Giano, in the end, is about the present: the meal, the ambiance, the presentation, the service, the wine. It’s all wonderful, beautiful, and encourages you to stop and savor every bite, sip, and moment.