Rascal Pinot Noir 2011

I am really, earnestly trying to teach myself to like pinot noir. Sometimes, I find bottles that really inspire me; other times, ones I like; and then there are the times that I stumble upon something that I really, really dislike.

I opened one such bottle last night— the 2011 Rascal from Oregon’s Willamette Valley. To be fair, I have not yet found a taste for Oregon pinots, and I said as much to the wine clerk, usually because I find them jammy, overripe, and lacking in acidity. But, in the spirit of trying something new, I decided to go for it, and $24 later opened a bottle of… grape juice. Thin, almost watery, fruit-punchy on the palate, and somehow possessing a whopping 13% alcohol, this wine left me wanting. Anything else, really.

0 out of 5 stars (low score due to price/quality ratio; would maybe rate a tad higher if I hadn’t shelled out $25 + tax)

The Powerful “Super-Rhônes” of Chêne Bleu

I had the good fortune of meeting and having lunch with Nicole Rolet of Chêne Bleu (“Blue Oak” in French) on her recent trip to New York. I didn’t know much about the wines before we met, but I was immediately taken away by her story. She and her husband had renovated La Verrière, a Medieval property in Provence, high in the mountains above the Gigondas region in the Southern Rhône.

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Elegant Cabs from California’s Sonoma County

Sonoma doesn’t get the recognition for cabernet sauvignon that its chic neighbor Napa Valley receives, perhaps because Napa so defines the flavor and body of the typical California red.

Sonoma, closer to the ocean, has a slightly milder climate, which lends itself to creating a more elegant cab in certain areas like the Alexander Valley and Sonoma Valley.

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Great Croatian Wines

I have to admit, I am more than partial to Croatians (full disclosure: I am dating one), so I couldn’t pass up the opportunity to sit down for a meal with three Croatian winemakers at Gramercy Tavern.

Each brought two different wines for the tasting, ranging from international styles to more indigenous varietals. The most exciting were the Matošević 100% Malvasia, a funky white from Istria in the north, and the Saints Hills Plavac Mali—a relative of the Zinfandel grape—from the Dingać region near Dubrovnik in the south. The deep, rich, raisinated fruits of the Plavac Mali paired beautifully with the lamb that was served, while the Malvasia proved the perfect accompaniment to all the foods, an unusual, floral alternative to Riesling, great for the adventurous wine lover. As for me, it’s just one more reason to go back and visit.

Domaine Pfister, Cuvée 8 2010

As a blend of gewurtztraminer, pinot gris, muscat, and riesling, this is an unusual wine for Alsace, but winemaker Mélanie Pfister might have hit on something: the universal Alsatian wine. The idea came from blending techniques she learned at Cheval Blanc in Bordeaux, and the Cuvée 8 showcases the best of Alsace: on the nose, the signature bouquet of thea gewurtztraminer and muscat grapes shine through—lychee, rose, honey, ripe melon—while on the palate, it maintains the zesty, razor-sharp acidic backbone that’s so typical of riesling here.

With its aromatics and acidity, it’s a wine that responds to lots of occasions and dishes, from fish to white meat to spicy foods, making it the perfect wine for your dinner table.

Around $33.

4.5 out of 5 stars.

Imported by Vintage 59 Imports.

2006 Casal Novo Godello

Looking for a white wine amongst the bottles I had lying around, I realized I had this 2006 Godello from Spain’s Valdeorras region, put down and forgotten for a few years. Valdeorras is a denominación de origen (DO) from Galicia, in the country’s coastal, northwest region, and wines made of Godello tend to have the big stone and tree fruit of their more famous coastal compatriot Albariño, but with an greater level of acidity. Continue reading

A Round-Up of Recent Articles

On Saveur.com:

Champagne is a supremely great wine to pair with food, and—particularly great for Thanksgiving—its sparkling style transitions easily among different flavors and textures. Bottles may vary in style, body, and sweetness, but a good, dry Brut goes nicely with almost anything. Typically high in acid and filled with soft bubbles, it can be tart and refreshing, a great palate cleanser between bites. Plus, you won’t have to worry about opening a bottle and not finishing it—at least, not if you have a crowd like mine. Full article here.

When it’s cold outside, I’m no longer looking for a refreshing drink; rather, I want to sip something rich and warming. This year, my solution is a rich, full-bodied pinot gris from Alsace: Zind-Humbrecht’s Pinot Gris Grand Cru is a mouthful, both in name and in flavor.
Full article here.

A relative of sauvignon blanc, this pink-skinned grape produces a wine with a sweet, acidic nose, reminiscent of dried oranges and tangerines, fuller on the palate than its zippy brother—all around, this bottle is perfect for sipping on a cool late-summer evening, and goes great with oysters, mussels, and other richer seafoods.
Full article here.

On Flavorwire.com:

Ever wonder what you’re supposed to look for when a server pours wine into your glass? Or had a mild panic attack when a clerk in a wine shop asks you what you’re looking for? Even if you know next to zero about wine, you still need to be able to order a glass. Check out our guide to faking your way through your next dinner date, from a few wine words to know to connoisseur-worthy deals. And if you’re talking to a wine snob at your next cocktail party, you may even be able to teach ‘em a thing or two.
Full article here.

On Islands.com:

With only one day in New Zealand’s Marlborough wine region, I wanted to find a way to quickly connect with the land known for its beautifully acidic and fruity wines. More specifically, I was on the hunt to discover Marlborough’s aromatic varieties such as Riesling and Pinot Gris, most of which don’t make it to the United States.
Full article here.

On YouTube’s Hungry Channel:

Not so much an article but a featured appearance as a judge for the Latke Challenge. Full video here.

How to Fake Like You Know Wine

White Wines of Alsace

Alsace is the only region in France dedicated almost exclusively to making white wine, and the breadth of grapes, soils, vineyard locations, and styles makes this region a gold mine for wine lovers to explore. From still to sparkling, light to rich, dry to sweet, the wines of Alsace offer a wealth of flavors to choose from, something I discovered on a recent visit.

Read my full piece over at Serious Drinks.

Behind the Scenes in Champagne

In my first-ever piece for Serious Drinks, I looked into the history and process behind the bubbles, the very things that make Champagne so unique: “It’s easy to forget that Champagne is diverse; the regional name often overshadows the variety of flavors and types of wines that are made here.”

Check out the story in full.