Summertime: First Batch of Ice Cream

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The heat hit, and it hit hard. I crave ice cream all of the time, but when it’s hot, there is truly nothing than alleviates the melting pressure of humidity than delicious, ice-cold creamy goodness. The summer I lived in Rome, I straight up went on a gelato diet for my day-time meals… Nothing else even sounded good. Due to the purchase of a bag of lemons at Whole Foods more than a few weeks ago instead of my usual single lemons when needed, I had all of the inspiration I needed in the fridge. Add to that a no-cook, no-custard base, and I might have found my new best friend for the summer.

Disclaimer: make sure to let your ice cream maker cool sufficiently; if you’re like me and jump the gun, you’ll have to start all over because it won’t freeze.

Lemon Ice Cream

  • zest of 2 lemons
  • 1/2 cup sugar
  • 1/2 cup freshly squeezed lemon juice
  • 1 1/2 cup heavy cream
  • 1/2 skim milk
  • pinch of salt

Using a Microplane or other fine-grain rasp zester, zest the lemons directly into the bowl of a blender. Add sugar and blend until zest is fine, then add the lemon juice until sugar is dissolved. Blend in the milk and cream until smooth. Chill for at least one hour, then freeze in the body of your ice cream makers. Place into freezer immediately to allow it to set.

Recipe adapted from David Lebovitz’s The Perfect Scoop.

Quick and Easy: Asparagus and Lemon-Butter Pasta

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Spring, my favorite season, has been very unwilling to show itself this year in New York. So I am grateful for the little signs of warmer months that I see in the markets and on menus, especially the delicate little shoots of asparagus. A peek at the recently discovered Canal House lunchtime photo blog inspired this quick and easy dinner, which I paired with a 2010 Babich Sauvignon Blanc from New Zealand.

Fresh, springtime pasta.

Asparagus and Lemon-Butter Pasta with Soft-Boiled Eggs
serves 2

  • Fresh pasta (preferably sheets of lasagne, torn into even strips)
  • 1 bunch of fresh, local asparagus, shaved with a vegetable peeler
  • 1 lemon
  • Tbsp butter
  • 3 eggs
  • Parmigiano, freshly grated

Blanch the asparagus, then set aside. Bring two pots of water to boil. In one, add the three eggs and let cook for 6 minutes. Remove immediately and let cool in an ice bath. In the other, add, salt then cook the pasta briefly, until soft (2-3 minutes). Drain and retain some water for the sauce.

In a separate pan, soften the butter and add the juice of the lemon. Toss the pasta in the sauce, using some of the pasta water if needed.

Plate the pasta, then place the asparagus on top. Peel and slice the eggs immediately before serving. Top with freshly grated parmigiano, as well as salt and pepper if desired.

Dinner Party: Middle Eastern Feast

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Stevie, Alexxa, and I are attempting a bi-coastal book club. While we haven’t actually talked about anything yet, I read the first book on the list: Annia Ciezadlo’s Day of Honey. It’s an American woman’s memoir of her time in Iraq and Lebanon during the conflicts of the past decade, told from the perspective of the people she met and the food she ate amidst the bombs, checkpoints, and other dehumanizing aspects of war. I loved the book and found it so inspiring and challenging. Especially when it came to my palate.

I have very little experience eating Middle Eastern food–outside of the occasional shawarma and falafel–and even less cooking it. So, why not cook a feast dedicated to the subject for ten people? That seemed like the most logical way to me to understand more about this cuisine. I spent one entire weekend sourcing ingredients (thank you Sahadi’s); soaking lentils, beans, and bulgur; cooking onions so long that they puffed up like Rice Krispies; and creating some of the most interesting, at least texturally speaking, dishes of my life. Who knows how authentic everything was, but in the end, it was all delicious.

My Middle Eastern Feast Menu
Mezes:
Homemade Hummus, Babaganoush, Labne Cheese served with Croatian Olive Oil, Stuffed Grape Leaves, Leftover Caponata (I threw this in there, since I had it in my fridge and Sicilian cuisine is heavily influenced by Arabic culture)

 The bulgur and greens dish shown here was one of my favorites, perhaps because the texture was one more familiar to me… it reminded me of cous cous.

Main (served family-style):
Lebanese Wheat Berry and Dried Corn Soup with Yogurt
Bulgur and Greens with Pistachios and Yogurt
Slow-Roasted Tomatoes with Rosewater and Sesame Seeds
Mjadara (Red Lentil Stew)

 These roasted for 4 hours in a 250-degree oven, dressed with a mixture of turbinado sugar, coarse salt, and cinnamon, then were topped with toasted sesame seeds and rosewater.

Dessert:
Greek Semolina and Yogurt Cake
Rice Pudding

 
The semolina cake was delicious and moist, topped with a lemon sugar syrup. 

Wines:
I’ve been doing some research on Lebanese wines, so we tasted a few bottles from the portfolios of Massaya, Chateau Kefraya, and Chateau Musar.

We washed the meal down with a series of Lebanese wines,
including the 2003 Hochar Pere et Fils featured here.

Many recipes inspired by and adapted from Paula Wolfert‘s Mediterranean Clay Pot Cooking and Ciezadlo’s recipes in Day of Honey. Photos by Anique Halliday.

Food Adventure: Rice Pudding

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I have had rice pudding on the mind for over a year, but I have somehow never gotten around to making the dish, despite having bought all of the ingredients. So when I read about mighli in Annia Ciezadlo’s Day of Honey and started to plan a Middle Eastern dinner party, I thought it might be the perfect time to try out the dish.

Mighli is a rice-based dish served throughout the Middle East for a variety of occasions, according to the culture. In some places, like Lebanon, it is the dish of celebrations, such as the birth of a child. In others, it is a dish of sorrow, perhaps to commemorate a death. Regardless, it is a dish that gathers people together to acknowledge the cycles of life, so it seems like a wonderful thing to have in one’s culinary repertoire.

I tried my hand at the dish, drawing inspiration from a variety of sources and from my own pantry. Warning: this makes a LOT of rice pudding.

  • 3 cups water
  • 1 1/2 cup basmati rice
  • 1/2 teaspoon salt
  • 3 cups whole milk
  • 1 cup heavy whipping cream
  • 1/2 cup sugar
  • 1/2 vanilla bean, split
  • 1 tablespoon freshly ground ginger
  • 1 tablespoon rosewater
  • 1 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg

Bring water, rice, and salt to a boil; simmer, covered, until water is absorbed. Add the remaining ingredients, being sure to scrape the seeds from the bean. Return heat to medium heat, stirring occasionally as the mixture comes together, about 30 minutes. When it achieves a thick, creamy, pudding-like texture, remove from heat. This can be made ahead of time, refrigerated, and kept for up to a week.

Friday Cocktails on SAVEUR.com

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I got into sherry a few years ago at a tasting party at Stevie’s house. Recently, I revisited the experience recently at The Noble Rot, a traveling wine club which hosted its own sherry party recently. Along with the lovely tastes provided by Kerin Auth of Spanish wine shop Tinto Fino in NYC, I greatly enjoyed a sherry martini that started the night. Check out my piece on SAVEUR.com to learn more!

 Courtesy of Anna Stockwell, SAVEUR.com

Quick and Easy: Citrus-glazed Salmon with Potatoes and Brussels

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My friend Anique asked what she could do with salmon, brussels sprouts, and fingerling potatoes, and the combination made me recall one of my favorite go-to dishes, one I first tasted at cube in LA last year. I decided to recreate it myself for a quick and easy dinner tonight.

Citrus-glazed Salmon with Smashed Potatoes and Shaved Brussels Sprouts

  • Boil the water and add the potatoes.
  • Thinly slice the brussels sprouts. Once the potatoes begin to boil, place the sprouts over low heat in a steamer. 
  • Dress the salmon with olive oil, salt and pepper. Broil the top side for 4 minutes, then flip for an additional two minutes on the skin side.
  • Drain the potatoes and smash them with salt, pepper, and some butter. 
  • For the final presentation, arrange brussels sprouts on top. Lay the salmon gently over the greens and potatoes and top with freshly squeezed grapefruit juice and bits.

I ate this with a 2009 Musar Jeune, a Lebanese dry white wine with slight apple notes on the finish that complemented the meal nicely.

Food Memories: Blood Oranges

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Back in the spring of 2007, I was living in a convent in Rome. The sisters who ran it leased out the rooms and provided meals for the short- and long-term guests that stayed there. Despite Italy’s culinary reputation, the food that was served could merely be said to sate hunger pangs—it was not food that could be particularly enjoyed. Sometimes, it could not even be eaten.

However, there was an orchard next to the property that the sisters tended. The fruit often made its way to our table, the highlight of otherwise dreary meals. Shortly after my arrival, blood orange season began. Having never before tasted its sweet, subtly complex, dark flesh, I quickly became addicted, often consuming entire meals of nothing else (obviously in addition to the large quantities of cornetti, cappuccini, and other delicious foods I ate when not at the convent).

Photo courtesy of Mike’s Table

 
After several weeks, I began to notice a discoloration of my skin around my joints—a slightly orange tinge to my knuckles, elbows, and the web of skin between my fingers. Horrified when I showed her, my Italian mamma Maria Teresa insisted that I visit the doctor, convinced I had contracted some sort of fungal disease. We went for a visit to have my hands examined. The kindly doctor looked at me with a smile and quietly asked, have you been eating too much beta carotene? He then extended his hand, 30 Euro for the consultation.

Once I had calmed down after feeling swindled, I began to reduce my blood orange intake, and the color began to fade to a memory. Since coming back to the US, I have rarely seen a blood orange at the store, let alone eaten as many as I did in those few months. This winter, however, they showed up again in my life, with all of my favorite grocers stock-piling them high on their shelves, and with prices continually decreasing throughout the season, I scooped them up, eating as many as I could each day.

I’ve so far made it through without turning orange as they slowly begin to disappear from the produce aisles, now experiencing a sadness to see them go. I have, however, found one more opportunity to indulge my obsession—blood orange juice. Sold at Marlow & Daughters down the street from me, it unfortunately  commands too high of a price to be a sustainable part of my diet until the season truly ends for the year. So, I plan to enjoy this last taste as I ready myself for next year’s deluge.

Jansal Valley Blood Orange Juice

Celebrations: Eleven Madison Park

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Toni and I recently celebrated our one-year anniversary at Eleven Madison Park. The restaurant had been on my to-try list for some time, and I’d been especially excited to go since reading about chef Daniel Humm’s playfulness in the kitchen of this haute restaurant.

Courtesy of Todd Coleman, SAVEUR.com

When we arrived, the art-deco space seemed enormous, with its vaulted ceiling as grand as one would imagine possible in the city, and yet it was simultaneously intimate. The number of tables was limited, so the extra room felt luxurious, not necessary to house a crowd. The staff seemed to be a part of a seamless choreography, united by silent, behind-the-scenes communication, that trickled down to the smallest gestures: taking our coats without the need for a claim receipt; attentively letting us know that our table was being set the moment I began to be antsy sitting at the bar; transferring our drinks to the table’s ticket without being asked. These were only augmented by the care they took to make our anniversary as special as it could be—a hand-written note awaited us on our table, and every one of our servers greeted us in kind.

The meal itself was adventurous, if not the most delicious I’ve ever tasted, with each menu item identified only by its primary ingredient. However, its inventive spirit, coupled with the large array of amuses, a choice of butters (cow’s milk and goat’s) to accompany our already lusciously buttery rolls, and the additionally sweet nibbles served after our final course, made the prix fixe price feel utterly worth the experience. Our staff even presented us with homemade chocolate bars, with a cut-to-fit, handwritten “Happy Anniversary” message nestled inside the custom encasement.

And the coup de grace? After the chef himself came out to make his rounds, we were presented with a little mason jar of housemade granola—chef’s favorite—to have for breakfast the next morning.

Winter Blues: Summer Memories from the North Fork

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Winter has really been getting to me, everything from the nasty, dirty snow that lingers on the city streets to the dark, chilly nights that greet me as I leave the office. After revisiting some photos from the summer, I thought it might be the perfect thing to post these photos from a lovely little highlight of my summer that took place last July. They brightened my otherwise gray day.

Delicious and easy summer-time lunch: sliced tomatoes from the farm stand with fresh ricotta, mixed greens, and charcuterie was the perfect solution. We washed it down with a lovely Chateau Coussin Provencal rosé from T. Edwards imports and finished the meal with sliced plums and peaches.
 
Meats and cheeses from the Village Cheese Shop in Mattituck, NY
 
  Shaved ricotta salata is a refreshing change from mozzarella.
A series of guacamoles and salsas: Stevie’s an avocado purist, so her guacamole was without any tomatoes. Judy, on the other hand, likes to mix things up, it seems, since she threw some green apple and tomato into hers. 

I love fresh salsa, so we got extra tomatoes and limes, then used up the white onion and cilantro left over from the guacamole. For fun, I threw some diced peach into a separate bowl to create a fruit salsa–inspired by, but much better than, the jar of mango salsa I saw at the grocery store.

 Delicious fettucine with a rich, corn and basil “pesto” was a major hit at the table. From the August 2010 issue of Bon Appétit magazine.

Skewers of delicious, fresh, grilled vegetables. 

 Grilled pineapple: the perfect summertime sweet to complement pork chops, or delicious on their own. And those grill marks so remind me of summertime.

Corn fritters: I wouldn’t let anyone shuck the corn until right before we planned to make the batter and fry it up; my mother has always told me that it is bad for the corn to expose it to air, since the sugars immediately begin to turn to starch.

Wondra-coated bay scallops: We’d made sure to buy local,
even though the Peruvian sea scallops were cheaper, and we were
rewarded by their sweet, juicy flavor.

Food Adventure: Gnocchetti Verdi in Alto Adige

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I rang in the New Year in a small town in Alto Adige, Italy, also known as the Südtirol. Here, the joint of influence of Austria and Italy is palpable everywhere—on the road signs that read in Italian, German, and the local dialect; on the cartons of milk labeled in kind; and most certainly in the food. Bordering, and formerly a part of, Austria, this Alpine region is characterized more by its German cuisine, albeit with Italian names, evident in the heavier meat-and-potato-laden dishes. By far my favorite of those I tried, however, was a dish that seemed more to bridge the two cultures: gnocchetti verdi are a local specialty whose form is like that of spaetzle but whose flavor is more reminiscent of a spinach-infused potato gnocco. Topped with butter and Grana Padano, it made for an excellent après-ski meal.

 Gnocchetti verdi in the ski rifugio